Take a TRA train to Ruifang, buy the NT$80 Pingxi Line day pass, and commit to two stops at most. Shifen gets you the railway-town scene and the waterfall (free, but gated: last entry 17:30 in summer, 16:30 in winter). The trains run roughly hourly, so a missed one costs real time. And you can love this valley without releasing a sky lantern; the locals cleaning them out of the forest will thank you.
The Pingxi Line is a single-track branch railway that wanders up a green river valley southeast of Taipei, stopping at a string of small towns that boomed with coal mining and then went quiet. Today the train itself is half the attraction. The other half is Shifen, where the old street presses right against the tracks and shopkeepers step back every time a train eases through.
Getting there and the day pass
From Taipei, take any TRA train to Ruifang (NT$49-76 depending on train type, 30-60 minutes), then change to the Pingxi Line. Buy the Pingxi Line one-day pass at a ticket window first: NT$80 (kids 6-11 pay NT$40), and it covers unlimited rides on the branch, including the Shen’ao spur on the other side of Ruifang. You can buy it at Taipei Main, Banqiao, Songshan or Ruifang itself.
The pass matters less for the money than for the freedom. Branch trains run roughly once an hour, and the whole rhythm of the day is built around that fact. Screenshot the timetable at Ruifang, decide your stops in advance, and treat each train as an appointment.
Shifen: the tracks-through-town stop
Shifen Old Street is the image you’ve seen: shopfronts a few steps from live rails, lanterns rising between passing trains. It’s compact, busy by late morning, and fun in a carnival way even if you’re only there to watch.
The better half of Shifen is a 20-30 minute walk from the station: Shifen Waterfall, a broad horsetail cascade often called the widest waterfall in Taiwan. Entry is free, but the access park is gated:
- June-September: 09:00-18:00, last entry 17:30
- October-May: 09:00-17:00, last entry 16:30
- Closed Lunar New Year’s Eve
Don’t save the waterfall for golden hour. The gate closes on schedule whatever the light is doing, and the walk back adds time against that hourly train.
The sky lantern question
Releasing a paper lantern with your wishes written on it is Shifen’s signature sale, and it’s a real piece of the valley’s economy. It’s also a litter and fire problem: every lantern comes down somewhere in the forest, and locals are paid pennies to haul the wreckage out.
You don’t need us to make this decision for you. Plenty of visitors find that watching is enough: a dozen lanterns rising over the tracks at dusk is the same show whether or not one of them is yours. If you do release one, some shops now advertise recovery-friendly practices; ask before you pay.
Pingxi and Jingtong: the quieter stops
Pingxi town gives you the same railway-valley feel at half the crowd density, plus the trailhead for the short, steep Xiaozi (Filial Son) peaks if you like your viewpoints with chains and ladders. Jingtong, at the end of the line, is a sleepy terminus with a preserved wooden station and old mining structures. Neither needs more than an hour or so.
The classic mistake is trying to hit every stop. With hourly trains, three towns means a full day of waiting on platforms. Shifen plus one other stop is the day that works.
Combining with Jiufen
Jiufen sits on the hill above Ruifang, so the pairing is natural: Pingxi Line in the morning and early afternoon, then back to Ruifang and the 15-minute bus up to Jiufen for teahouses and lanterns at dusk. That order matters, because Jiufen is at its best in the evening and Shifen Waterfall’s gate closes before then. Our day trips comparison covers the bus specifics.
FAQ
Is Shifen worth visiting?
Yes, especially paired with Jiufen. The waterfall is the most impressive easy-access cascade near Taipei, and the trains-through-town scene is unique. Go before noon or expect to share it.
How much is the Pingxi Line day pass?
NT$80 for adults, NT$40 for kids 6-11, unlimited rides on the branch for the day. Buy it at a TRA ticket window before boarding.
Do I have to pay for Shifen Waterfall?
No, entry is free. It’s gated with fixed hours though: last entry 17:30 in summer months, 16:30 from October through May.
Is releasing a sky lantern bad?
The lanterns come down as litter in the surrounding forest, and cleanup is a constant local burden. Plenty of visitors now watch instead of launching. If you release one anyway, pick a shop that talks openly about recovery.
Can I do Shifen without the branch train?
Buses and taxis reach Shifen, and a taxi from Ruifang can rescue a blown connection. But the slow train through the valley is a real part of the experience, and most people should keep it.
Keep planning
- DestinationsCycling Around Taiwan: The 968 km Loop, Planned Properly
Riding Cycle Route No. 1 around Taiwan — the 968 km loop, the 9-12 day reality, Giant's rental program, which direction to ride, and the seasons that make or break it. Checked August 2026.
- DestinationsMaokong: Gondola, Tea Houses and the Easy Half-Day
The Maokong gondola's current NT$180 flat fare, its Monday closures, the crystal-cabin question, which tea house to sit down in, and how the zoo combo works. Checked August 2026.
- DestinationsJiufen: How to Time Taiwan's Most Famous Hill Town
How to get to Jiufen by bus or train, when to go to dodge the crowds, which teahouse is worth it, and whether to stay overnight. Checked July 2026.
- DestinationsYangmingshan National Park: Which Zone to Pick and How to Get Around
Yangmingshan without a car — the R5, S15 and 108 buses, which of the park's zones fits your day, and the fog problem nobody budgets for. Checked July 2026.
- Food & Night MarketsShilin Night Market: How to Do Taipei's Biggest One Right
Shilin night market's real hours, the Jiantan MRT trick, the renovated underground food court, and which stalls are worth it in Taipei's biggest market. Checked August 2026.
- DestinationsTainan in 1-2 Days: Eat at Dawn, Wander at Dusk
Tainan done properly — the 5am beef soup ritual, Anping's fort and tree house, Chihkan Tower's restoration status, the HSR station trap, and why an overnight beats a day trip. Checked August 2026.
Prices, schedules and closures change. If you spot something stale, email us and we’ll check it.